Growing roses has been called a labor of love. For centuries, poets have written about suffering the thorns in order to enjoy the beauty and fragrance of the rose. Athletes have a more simple saying: “no pain, no gain.”

Let’s face it, roses are far from low maintenance plants. They are susceptible to a variety of insect and fungal problems. An especially cold winter can cause a lot of die-back, and humid or rainy summers bring on the inevitable black spot fungus. Yet, so many gardeners still find a place for this plant somewhere in their yard. Perhaps it is for sentimental reasons. Or maybe it is because the rose has such a long tradition in literature.   For whatever reason, start your roses off this time of year on the right foot with good structural pruning.

Now is the time to prune shrub roses into a nice v-shape. Follow the rules of pruning and first remove any dead, diseased or crossing canes. Then, select the outwardly branching canes that will form the v-shape and remove the other canes. Limb up the canes that remain so there is not a lot of growth low to the ground where fungal diseases can frequently take hold. Make your pruning cuts just above the buds on the cane in order to direct the new growth outward.  A lot of inward or congested branching leads to poor air circulation and potential fungal problems.

Don’t forget to sterilize those pruners as you move from shrub to shrub to prevent the spread of any diseases. I use rubbing alcohol. It also comes in handy when one of the thorns inevitable finds its way into my hand or arm. But, “no pain, no gain.” The reward will be there sometime around the end of May.

Posted by Bob Rensel

A colleague of mine recently commented that the best time to prune woody plants is when he has a pair of pruners in his hand. His point was that when he sees something that needs to be cut off, he takes care of it right away. While I understand and respect his efficiency, winter pruning is kind of a ritual that I look forward to each year. Deciduous trees are still naked, and it is a good time to examine the branching structure and make any needed changes. I start with the maples in January before the sap begins to run. I try to take care of the rest of the woodies by the end of March, while they are still dormant. I’ll even tackle the spring bloomers in March if I see crossing or congested branching. They are much easier to examine before they leaf out. Then, I’ll go back after they bloom if I need to reduce them in size. I also have some gnarly weeping trees such as Japanese Maples and Persian Ironwoods. Winter is the best time for me to make the cuts needed to constantly redirect the growth in order to achieve that contorted look.

Since becoming a gardener, I have learned to appreciate the winter silhouettes that trees provide in the landscape. I can’t help myself from visually examining every tree I pass when I walk my dog. (My dog, by the way, has his own rituals with these trees). I marvel at the well balanced skeletons that gracefully reach for the sky. But this time of year, every branching flaw, every stub cut, every water sprout and every crossing branch is exposed. So for me, now is the time to clean them up and prepare those trees and shrubs for the upcoming growing season. For a comprehensive pruning reference, check out the Minnesota Extension Service site.

Posted by Bob Rensel